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Pity me. The International Studies Association annual convention met in San Diego last week, and duty demanded that I represent our College there. I co-presented an article critiquing scholars’ idea that “offshore balancing” should form the hub of U.S. grand strategy. That’s a story for another day. While in San Diego I stole away to Balboa Park for a few hours. It was my first visit to the park since 1984, when Midshipman Holmes rendezvoused with aircraft carrier USS Carl Vinson (CVN-70) at North Island Naval Air Station for a Pacific deployment. The place is as beguiling as I remember from those thrilling days of yesteryear.
For me, three things stand out about Balboa Park: its setting, its history, and what that history says about the American geographical perspective. First, the setting. The architects’ buoyant mix of Spanish Baroque, Mission Revival, and Indian architecture, with the occasional Islamic accent thrown in for good measure, remains as fresh as it was when the park constituted the centerpiece of the 1915 Panama-California Exposition. The exhibition took its name from Vasco Nunez de Balboa, the first European to sight the Pacific Ocean from North American shores. Balboa claimed the ocean for the king of Spain. The park, fittingly, takes its maritime character from the Spanish adventurer. Nautical themes abound.
The exposition marked the opening of the Panama Canal after decades of off-again, on-again construction efforts. Starting around midcentury, French, British, and ultimately American engineers had a go at digging a canal across Nicaragua or Panama. The new waterway finally admitted its first interoceanic ship in August 1914. The Panama-California Exposition was San Diego’s way of advertising itself as the southernmost U.S. port of call for coastwise shipping passing hither and yon along the West Coast. The city’s predominantly southern gaze explains why the exhibition’s designers chose to depart from the neoclassical architecture then in vogue for world’s fairs and expositions. It set San Diego apart from San Francisco, at the time California’s most populous and influential city, which – then as now – tended to face more toward Asia than Latin America.
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